How To Tie A Fish Hook On

Which Fishing Knots Are The Best To Use

When it comes to tying fish knots there are several to choose from, but do you need them all? Factors to consider when deciding on which knot to use are; its purpose, the strongest, and the easiest/quickest to tie. Here we will focus on the most common knots used and pick the 3 that most anglers will ever need. *Note, when using Monofilament wet the line first, this helps keep the knot from slipping out before becoming tight.

Knots Used For Tying Two Unequal Size Lines Together

In the cases where you need to tie one fishing line to another or tie a leader on, there are a few knots to choose from, but the most popular are the Alberto Knot, Albright Knot, and the Double Uni Knot. Any one of these knots will do the job, so whichever one is quickest and easiest for you, go with it. I prefer the Double Uni Knot as this is the easiest to tie, thus our #3 knot.

Alberto Knot

The Alberto and Albright Knots are extremely similar with both knots starting and ending the exact same way. It’s the style of line wraps in the middle section of these knots that separates them. This knot was designed to join lines of different diameters and/or composition such as monofilament or fluorocarbon leaders to braid line.

Albright knot

The Albright Knot is one of the most reliable knots for joining lines of greatly unequal diameters or different materials such as monofilament to braided line.

#3 Double Uni Knot

The Uni to Uni Knot is a standout for joining lines of relatively similar diameter or for adding a monofilament leader to your mainline or fly line. This knot produces a stronger connection than either the Surgeon Knot or Blood Knot. However, if you’re joining lines of vastly different diameters then the Albright Knot would be a better choice.

Knots Used For Tying On Hooks & Artificial Baits

The most common knots used for tying on baits and hooks are; Palomar, San Diego Jam, Trilene, and the Improved Clinch Knot. All four of these knots rank at the top of the list for being the strongest. I prefer the Improved Clinch Knot with 7 twist, but the Trilene Knot will resist slippage better and due to it’s double wrap around the hook eye is considered stronger.

#1 Improved Clinch Knot with 7 twist

The Improved Clinch Knot is our #1 knot. This is the only knot you really need for tying on hooks, artificial baits, or the line to your reel. I use this knot weather I”m fishing for Bluegills, King Salmon (Chinook), or Sturgeon.

Trilene Knot

The Trilene Knot is a strong and reliable knot for joining monofilament line to hooks, swivels and lures. This knot resists slippage and is a stronger alternative to the Clinch Knot.

Palomar Knot

The Palomar Knot is a good knot for attaching a hook to your line or a fly to a leader. However, this knot seems to be a bit confined or bunchy.

San Diego Jam Knot

The San Diego Jam Knot is also known as the Reverse Clinch Knot. This Knot is a little harder to tie and does take longer than the Clinch Knot. The San Diego Jam Knot works well with monofilament, braided, and fluorocarbon lines.

Rapala Knot

Another knot that you could consider is the Rapala knot. This non-slip knot allows you to leave a loop in front of your bait, creating a little more action. This knot is harder to tie then the Clinch Knot and will required a little more time.

Tying A Line To Your Reel

The Arbor Knot is most commonly used for tying your line to a reel, however this knot is not as strong as the Improved Clinch Knot. Stay with the Improved Clinch Knot.

Knots for tying on Additional Hooks

When you’re looking to tie more than one hook to your line there is one knot I prefer, that is the Snell Knot.

#2 Snell Knot

The Snell Knot works great on live bait when you need multiple hooks or when adding a stinger hook for light biting Walleyes. This is our #2 Knot.

Our Top 3 Knots

The top 3 knots we have chosen will suffice most Fisherman and any line tying need that arises. These Knots again are; #1 Improved Clinch Knot (or Trilene Knot), #2 Snell Knot, and #3 Double Uni Knot.

See Animated Knots By Grog

Here you will see many of the fishing knots in Animation.

More Animated Knots By Netknots

This site will cover more Animated Knots but is not as good as Grog’s site.

How to tell the difference between Walleye and Sauger

What Are The Differences Between A Walleye And Sauger

There are very few differences between the Walleye and Sauger and the easiest way to tell them apart is by looking at their Dorsal and Caudal (tail) Fins.

The Walleye & The Sauger

Both these species of fish have a lot in common and are very good to eat. The Walleye and Sauger are; similar in color, have a long and roundish body, have a forked tail, are sensitive to bright light, and have a very good low-light vision. Thus giving them a big advantage on their favorite prey the perch.

How To Tell A Walleye & Sauger Apart

The best way in telling these fish apart is by spreading the Dorsal fin out and looking for the rolls of black spots between each spine. Then take a look at the tail to see if there is a white spot in the outer lower corner or a white line running along the entire bottom. click on the picture below to enlarge.

1W. The Walleye has a white corner on the lower part of the tail.
1S. The Sauger has a white line running along the lower part of the tail.

2W. Walleyes are golden in color with a white belly and dark back.
2S. Sauger are golden with black blotches in color with a white belly and dark back.

3W. Walleyes do NOT have black spots on their Dorsal or Adipose Fins.
3S. Sauger HAVE black spots layered between the spines of their Dorsal & Adipose Fins.

4W. The Walleye is a larger fish and will grow up to 20 pounds.
4S. The Sauger is a smaller fish and will grow up to 5 pounds.

Where You Can Find Sauger

The Sauger’s distribution is much more limited then the Walleyes. In Minnesota you will find Sauger in; Lake of the Woods, Rainy Lake, Lake Kabetogama, Lake St. Croix, and the Minnesota & Mississippi Rivers. In Wisconsin you will find Sauger in the Chippewa & Mississippi Rivers, and in Lake Eire, where the Ohio DNR have been working hard to bring back the Sauger population.

Bandit Crankbait Review- Walleyes, Bass, & Crappies

The Bandit Lure

The Bandit Crankbait comes in 3 different series (100, 200, 300) and covers depths of 2-5 feet, 4-8 feet, and 8-12 feet. By using a lighter weight line or longer distances by trolling you can get these lures to dive even deeper. The best action comes when pausing the retrieval once your Bandit has reached its maximum depth, then starting your retrieval again. These lures also work great in heavy cover areas such as wood, stumps, and rocks, you just need to slow down your retrieval and work the lure through it.

There are many other crankbaits that will also catch fish, however, the shape of the Bandit seems to produce more fish caught when it comes to the strike to catch ratio. On many of my crankbaits too often the fish does not get hooked once it strikes, however, I have found with the Bandit’s shape it seems to hook the fish at a much higher percentage.

Bandit vs the Countdown

Another successful lure I use for Walleyes are Countdowns, however, there are advantages to using the Bandits. The disadvantage of the Count-down is that you have to wait for the lure to sink to the desired depth and due to its light weight you can not toss it as far. The Bandit 100 & 200 series weights in at 1/4 oz where the 300 series weights 3/8 oz allowing a much further cast, they are approximately 2″ long. You will increase your strikes by pausing the lure for a few seconds once it reached its maximum depth, allowing the lure to slowly rise, then dive again once you restart your retrieval.

Bandit’s Only Disadvantage

At 1/4 and 3/8 ounces the Bandits are still very light compared to much heavier Crankbaits or Top water baits, so they will not toss as far. You can improve you distance by lighter weight line and a better rod & reel.

Bandit Series To Use

These lures are good for Spring, Summer, and Fall, but you will need to change between the 100, 200, and 300 series depending on the water temperature and season.

The 100 series is great for Spring Bass and Summer Crappies working in shallow water during the early morning and evening hours.

The 200 series comes into play in the early Summer through Fall, when the bass are just off the weed-line and the Walleyes are suspended 8-11 feet down. Use this lure early in the morning before the sun is too high and in the evening when the sun starts to set.

The 300 series works great during the Summer daylight hours when the water temperatures have warmed up and the fish have moved to deep water. Focus on the steeper drop-offs for both the Bass and Walleyes. In this video I was fishing at noon on a 17 ft drop-off and catching Bass. The lure weights 3/8 oz and dives 8 -12 feet.

If I were to choose one series that works best for all seasons and depths, it would be the 200 series. This seems to be the most consistent at catching bass and suspended walleyes.

What Colors To Use

Colors will vary depending on the live bait in the lake and its water clarity. Study the lake habitat, type of minnows, and the color of the crabs in the lake. This will give you a good idea of what colors lures to focus on. For example, on my lake the crabs are blue with bright orange and I found the Bandit 200 series Humble Bee to work the best for both Bass and Walleyes.

Fishing Summer Walleyes – Mid West Outdoors

Summer Fishing For Walleyes

When the days have turned hot and the lake water has warmed up you will need to change your patterns for Walleyes. By patterns I mean the bait you use, the areas you fish, and the depth of water you fish.

Baits To Use

Most Walleyes are now looking for the cooler water, most likely cold streams flowing into the lake. They have also moved off the bottoms and are suspended, so use a fish finder to locate the correct depths to be fishing. I have found they are typically suspended 3/4 of the way down, so if fishing 17 feet of water you want to focus on crank baits that dive ~11 feet. However I will still use the jigging Rapala for Walleyes that are cruising the weed-lines or sandbars, as this is my number one bait(casting) for catching Walleyes.

Remember each lake is different, so the color of bait is very important. If you are fishing a dark lake try the yellows, orange, gold, or green glow. For a clear lake try the blue, green and silver. If your colors are not working keep changing until you find what does.

My Top Two Baits

Here is what has worked for me this summer. My top two baits for Walleyes are; the ice fishing jigging rapala and the Bandit Crank-Bait.

How To Fillet Walleyes – Best Method No Bones

How To Fillet A Walleye

To fillet Walleyes or any pan fish is quick and easy. The real secret is in having a good sharp fillet knife. For Walleyes I will use a 6″ Fillet Knife unless they are larger than 4 pounds, then I use a 9″ knife. See how to Fillet A Bluegill.

Filleting Walleyes

This short video will step you through the process of filleting a Walleye. Once you have the fillet removed you will want to remove the cartilage in the fillet. Now you’re not done yet as we need to remove the best tasting part of the Walleye, the cheek meat. This meat is by far a delicacy, so don’t toss it out.

How To Clean Walleye Fillets

Fist rinse your fillets 3 times to remove all the scales, then add salt to pull out any blood in the fillets and place into the refrigerator for a hour or two.